Skip to content
InsulationCalculator
Pink fiberglass batts fitted between wall studs in a partially sheathed exterior wall

Materials compared

Types of insulation

Six materials cover almost every job in a house. They differ on R-value per inch, what they cost installed, where they belong, and how much of the work you can do yourself.

Which material is right is usually decided by the space rather than by preference: an open attic floor will take anything and is cheapest filled with loose fill, a finished wall takes only what fits through a drilled hole, and a crawl space has moisture rules that rule several options out entirely.

Choosing between them

Start with the assembly, not the material. Each calculator asks what you are insulating first and then offers only the materials that can physically go there — which is a faster way to the answer than reading four product pages.

Four things R-value per inch does not tell you

  • Air leakage beats R-value in a leaky assembly. A material that seals as it insulates can outperform a higher-R one that leaves gaps. This is why spray foam earns its price in an irregular cavity and not in a tidy one.
  • Batt coverage is already net of framing. The figure on the bag — an Owens Corning R-15 bag states 67.81 sq ft, which is seven 15-inch batts — assumes studs. Dividing gross wall area by it over-orders by about 7%, which is the cuts allowance you want. Do not deduct framing a second time.
  • Facing is a climate decision, not a preference. Kraft facing is not permitted in zones 1 and 2, and belongs on the warm interior side in zone 5 and colder. Never put an interior vapour barrier behind exterior foil-faced sheathing — a wall sealed on both faces cannot dry in either direction.
  • Vermiculite means stop. If what is already up there is pebbly and grey-brown, it may contain asbestos. The EPA advises leaving it undisturbed and having it tested before any work.